|   basalt of which it is composed produces an effect 
          which is dull and lifeless, unrelieved by the green of trees and 
          shrubs as in the ruins of Kanawat (Kanatha); while the crude and 
          unsightly hovels which constitute the buildings of the modern village, 
          hide from any general view much that would be beautiful if it could be 
          seen. For, although the village occupies hardly a sixth of the area 
          within the ancient walls, it is so placed as to cluster in all its 
          squalor close about the walls and columns of the best preserved of the 
          ancient buildings. The general effect of the ruins after one has 
          entered the West Gate is far less striking than that of a distant view 
          from far out on the Roman road that leads from Der'a. The prospect 
          gives the illusion of a surging sea of broken basalt, with column 
          shafts and capitals of the same material borne, like flotsam, upon its 
          surface, or half concealed beneath its waves. The forbidding and 
          sombre walls of the Arabic fortress appear to guard a promontory to 
          the southeast, and a poor village of basalt and mud, clinging about 
          the bases of a few ancient columns, and pressing close to the grim 
          black walls and tall square minarets of half a dozen mosques, seems to 
          rise from a low-lying shore. The West Gate which introduces most 
          travellers to the city is a fine and imposing monument; for its high 
          arch and ornamented façade stand to almost their original height. But 
          one must traverse a wide area of the basalt sea before encountering 
          another object of interest. This next monument I have called the 
          Central Arch; it stands parallel to the main street, facing north; one 
          face is well preserved, the other is in complete ruins. A little 
          farther towards the east, and on the left as one approaches, are four 
          Corinthian columns of large scale, set diagonally upon a square formed 
          by the meeting of two streets; they are bereft of an entablature, but 
          compose the most beautiful of the monuments of Bosra. A step farther 
          on, across the street which opens out to the north, is a Corinthian 
          column of striking height and slenderness joined to a lofty wall with 
          niches in it. Due north, about 24 metres away, stands a similar 
          column, but no corresponding wall. The two belonged, without doubt, to 
          the same building. The buildings just described are the only ancient 
          ones in all Bosra that can be found without searching among the later 
          buildings, save a few tall columns of the Corinthian order which tower 
          above the fiat, mud covered, house tops. The Theatre is completely 
          hidden by the mighty walls of the Arabic castle, for the construction 
          of which the fine draughted ashlar of the city walls was purloined, 
          the East Arch is more than half hidden by houses, the Palace to the 
          southeast of it is visible from one side only; while the great 
          building, or buildings, on the "akropolis", which are represented by 
          standing columns of the Roman and Nabataean periods are impossible to 
          measure, or to plot out, owing to the congested state of the modern 
          village around them. The large Baths which lie to the south of the 
          great columns are packed full and closely crowded all around by 
          dwellings and stables. In the opposite direction the broken vaults and 
          massive walls of a large edifice stand up well above the roofs of a 
          group of houses. This ruinous conglomeration of heavy Roman 
          constructions which goes by the name of Khan id-Dibs — the honey Khan 
          - is so thickly beset by native buildings that its various parts seem 
          to be disconnected until the whole is surveyed and put upon paper. 
          Northward from this great structure is a group of houses in the 
          court-yards of which the pavement and several columns of a colonnaded 
          street are to be found, in connection with long walls, well built of 
          highly finished masonry with many doorways in them, which originally 
          constitued the fronts of shops. When the plan of these remains has 
          been extricated from the mass of later buildings, it appears that this 
          spot was the meeting place, or crossing, of two important streets. 
          Following the line of one of these streets eastward along a narrow 
          modern alley with ancient columns built into, a wall on the left, one 
          emerges upon an open space bounded on the east by the ruins of the 
          Cathedral, the front wall of which still preserves a part of its lower 
          storey, though its interior is filled with a heap of rubbish. Behind 
          the Cathedral is a group of ancient residential buildings part of 
          which probably belonged to the Episcopal Palace. These residences are 
          still inhabited, and have been altered within to meet the requirements 
          of the present occupants. One wall preserves three storeys of windows. 
          To the north the well finished walls and gable ends of Dêr Bohêra 
          stand out as the;best preserved of the buildings of Bosra, and , a 
          little further along in the same direction, one encounters the curved 
          walls of two apsidal constructions which are quite hidden by modern 
          buildings. Between this point and the North Gate is another building 
          with two apposed apses lying north and south. The North Gate itself is 
          visible only in foundations which give a plan like that of the West 
          Gate. Near the north wall of the city are the scant ruins of another 
          large bath. Westward from the North Gate is a copious spring with 
          steps descending on all sides. This is still the chief water supply of 
          the town and the meeting place of all the inhabitants. It was 
          undoubtedly dignified in ancient times by a more symmetrical setting, 
          with steps like the seats of a theatre leading down to the water on 
          all four sides, and was surrounded with columns. The principal remains 
          of Christian architecture, outside the Cathedral group, are found in 
          the southeast quarter of the city. These consist of three churches no 
          one of which preserves more of its original structure than is just 
          sufficient to mark it as a basilica of the Christian period. All three 
          were poorly constructed. Church No. I is the best preserved of all. It 
          lies southwest of the Palace. Its entire plan is to be traced in walls 
          and column bases. Church No. 2 consists only of an apse and side 
          chambers, but the foundations of its west wall are traceable in the 
          ruins. The largest of these churches is No. 3 which stood between the 
          South Baths and the „Kalybe" ; it is represented by its north wall, 
          one side chamber, and one compound pier of its apse. In addition to 
          these more strictly architectural monuments of the Roman and Christian 
          periods just described, the ruins of Bosra embrace several great 
          public works of construction that lie just within, or just outside, 
          the city walls. These are first, two great reservoirs which are 
          believed by some writers to belong to the mediaeval period. One of 
          them lies to the east of the city, and is not shown upon the map. It 
          is almost completely ruined, having been preyed upon for building 
          stones. The other, which lies in the southeast quarter of the town is 
          quite intact, and often contains water; although its importance as a 
          birkeh has greatly diminished since the old hadjdj route through Bosra 
          has been abandoned for one farther west. The ancient Hippodrome on the 
          south side of the city is difficult to see, because it has been 
          divided within and hidden without by a maze of garden walls. It is 
          possible, however, to measure the entire outline of its outer curve 
          and long sides; while its tiers of stone seats are visible at two 
          points on the inside where they have been incorporated with garden 
          walls. A complex of heavy walls, one of which curves at its northern 
          end, is to be seen to the west of the Castle, near a section of the 
          Roman wall of the city which was joined on to a very ancient wall of 
          bowlders. The term Naumachia has been applied to a huge depression in 
          the northwest quarter, which certainly has every appearance of having 
          been artificially excavated. Its sides and west end are cut down in 
          straight slopes. Although its east end is uneven, and looks like a 
          natural slope, this is perhaps only buried in debris, and may be like 
          the other sides. A few seats, like those of a Roman theatre, are to be 
          seen lying on the north side. Two springs at the bottom of the 
          depression supplied a means of flooding the place, and naturally 
          suggested the name which has been given to it. The remains of 
          Mohammedan architecture outside the Castle are chiefly the mosques 
          which are scattered well over the area within the walls, suggesting 
          that the Arab city was almost, if not quite, as large as the city of 
          Roman days. Five of these mosques remain, in addition to one in the 
          Castle, and another which is known to have existed near the Central 
          Arch, but which has been wholly destroyed. Only one of them is in use 
          to-day — Djami il-Fatmeh —; another, the Djami il-Khidr, is in good 
          preservation but disused, the others stand partly ruined, their walls 
          and minarets being preserved, while their roofs have fallen in. Like 
          the Castle, the mosques were built out of the ruins of Christian and 
          Pagan buildings, most of them having been constructed on the 
          principles of architecture peculiar to the earlier styles employed in 
          the Haurân. 
 
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